Change or rekey · Kitchener
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
After a wet summer the entry door sits lower in its frame.
In plain words
Servicing the original lock is usually the better choice for an older home, for practical reasons as much as sentimental ones. Cutting a period door for a modern cylindrical lockset means boring a large hole through the stile and leaves the old mortise to be filled; a repaired mortise case avoids all of that. Where the home is a designated heritage property, keeping the hardware may also be what the municipality expects. The service treats the door as something to preserve: minimal disturbance, parts matched to the original, a strike adjusted rather than replaced, and the old lock left running smoothly for decades to come.
How the visit goesSomeone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware. The faceplate, the strike and the little thumb-turn are all under several coats, the deadbolt scrapes when it moves, and the knob is stiff enough to leave marks on your hand.
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
How the visit goes
The door before the lock
Before blaming a lock that may be perfectly sound, the locksmith looks at the door. With it open, the lock is cycled; with it closed, the latch and deadbolt are tried again. A lock that works open and fights when shut is telling you the door has moved. The gap around the door is checked top to bottom, the hinges are watched for a sag when the door is lifted, and the strike plate is inspected for bright wear marks where the bolt has been scraping past. In an older home with a solid wood door this is a routine finding, and correcting it is often most of the repair.
Taking the lock out without marking the door
Removal is done in a set order so nothing is forced. The knob set screws are backed off and the knobs and spindle drawn out, then the escutcheons are lifted away, their screw positions photographed for reassembly. On a cylinder lock, the small set screw in the faceplate is released and the cylinder is unthreaded from the case. The faceplate screws come out, and the case is eased from its pocket with a gentle rock, never a pry bar, because the wood at the edge of an old door is thin. Everything that comes off is bagged and labelled, and the pocket is looked at while it is empty.
Watching the door through the seasons
The lock is aligned to the door as it hangs today, and a solid wood door in an older home will move again. Through a humid summer it swells, through the heating season it shrinks, and each year the hinges settle a fraction. Twice a year, close the door and try the latch and bolt; if either has started to scrape or needs the door lifted, the strike wants a small adjustment or the hinge screws want snugging, which is a five-minute job. Doing that early keeps the rebuilt case from being strained, and it is the single habit that makes a vintage lock last another few decades without fuss.
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
In the van
Spindle and knob set screws
Light lock oil
Dry graphite or PTFE lubricant
Hub followers and lever packs
Mortise cylinder and cam
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
What affects the quote
Keying doors alike
Bringing several interior locks onto one bit key, or several cylinders onto one flat key, is extra bench work per lock and is simplest to arrange while all the cases are out on the same visit.
Bit key or cylinder lock
A bit-key case has keys filed by hand on the bench, while a cylinder lock is rekeyed or fitted with a new cylinder on a key machine. The two take different time and materials, and the quote follows.
Paint and seized parts
Hardware buried under decades of paint takes time to free and clean without damage. A faceplate, strike and thumb-turn that have to be stripped back add to the visit and are noted in the quote.
What to have ready
- Can you send a photo of the plate in the door edge and one of the keyhole?
- What does the knob do when you turn it: return, sag, or not come back?
- How many keys would you like to have afterwards?
Vintage Mortise Lock Service: questions
QuestionsCan you make a key for a lock that has none?
Yes. A bit key is cut to the lock rather than copied from another key: the locksmith chooses a blank of the right size and files the bit until it clears the wards and lifts the levers inside your case, testing as they go. A pin-tumbler cylinder on a later lock is decoded or rekeyed and keys cut to it. Bring any loose keys that came with the house, since one may be close enough to serve as a starting pattern.
What do I get at the end of the visit?
A lock you have tested yourself from both sides, keys counted into your hand with a spare, any parts that were removed if you want them, and a short written note of what was done: case type, parts replaced, keys made, strike adjusted. For a bit-key lock the locksmith keeps the details needed to cut further keys later. You also get shown where the yearly drop of oil goes.
Can you match a missing knob, plate or thumb-turn?
Often, yes. Locksmiths who work on older hardware keep salvage and reproduction trim in the common patterns and finishes, and a knob, rosette or escutcheon can usually be found close enough that the pair on one door match. Where nothing suitable exists, the trim from a less visible door can be moved to the entry and the reproduction fitted where it is seen less. Bring or photograph the surviving piece so it can be matched.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides.
- Lock Replacement & UpgradeThe lever on the side door droops toward the floor and rattles in your hand.
- Smart Lock InstallationThe rental turns over every few months and each time you drive across town to swap keys, then wonder whether copies were made.