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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Kitchener
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Kitchener

Change or rekey · Kitchener

Deadbolt Installation in Kitchener

The bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides.

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In plain words

Deadbolt installation puts a solid bolt lock on a door that either has none or has one that is past its useful life. Unlike the spring latch in a knob or lever, a deadbolt is a straight bar of metal that only moves when the key or thumb-turn moves it, so a card slipped into the gap or a shove against the door does nothing. The locksmith bores the door if needed, fits the bolt and cylinder, cuts a proper pocket in the frame and secures a reinforced strike with screws long enough to reach the framing. You are left with a door that locks with a firm, full throw.

Sound familiar?

The old deadbolt has grown lazy. You turn the thumb-turn and the bolt creeps out halfway, then needs a second push with the door pulled tight. Some mornings the key has to be jiggled before it will come back out.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Rugged handheld tablet showing a menu on a workbench beside two key fobs, a laptop, a cable plug and a blue cloth. — Kitchener
Double glass doors in metal frames with a horizontal push bar, beside a brick wall, with a parking lot and trees outside. — Kitchener
  1. Which key should open it

    A deadbolt is also a key decision, so the locksmith asks how the household's keys are arranged now. If every door shares one key, the new cylinder can be pinned to that same key, provided the keyways match, so nobody's ring grows. If the house has just changed hands, this is the natural time to set the new bolt and the other exterior locks to a fresh key and retire whatever copies are out there. Restricted or high-security keyways, keypad models with a backup cylinder and locks that must match a rental building's system all steer the choice of hardware, and it is easier to settle this before the box is opened than after.

  2. Swapping an old deadbolt in place

    When an existing bolt is being replaced, the work starts by backing out the two inside screws and lifting off both housings, then removing the bolt from the edge. The bore and backset are measured against the new hardware, and any difference is dealt with before the new bolt goes in: a larger bore for a smart deadbolt, a different faceplate shape, or a spacer for a thinner door. The new bolt, cylinder and thumb-turn go on in the usual order. The old strike comes off too, the pocket is deepened if needed, and a reinforced strike with long screws replaces it, so the upgrade happens on both sides of the gap.

  3. A bolt with a full, deadlocked throw

    What you feel at the end is a bolt that travels its whole length into the frame with one turn and stops with a definite click, which is the deadlocking position that stops the bolt being pushed back from the edge. From outside, the key turns a cylinder that sits in a collar which spins if gripped. From inside, the thumb-turn moves the same bolt without a key. The locksmith shows you both, throws the bolt with the door closed so you hear it seat, and hands over the packaging with the model, finish and backset written on it for the day a matching lock is wanted on another door.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Strike box

  • Single-cylinder deadbolt

  • 75 mm (3 in) strike screws

  • 25 mm auger bit

  • Jamb reinforcer

Key-cutting machine with red handles on a worn wooden bench beside a tray of loose keys, key fobs and a screwdriver. — Kitchener

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Rental and building requirements

    Matching a building's keyway, providing keys to a landlord or fitting a lock that a condominium corporation specifies can add hardware or bench work, each shown as its own item.

  2. Glass near the lock

    A captive thumb-turn, laminated glass, security film or a relocated bolt height each carry their own cost, and the choice you make about glass shapes that part of the quote.

  3. Finish and trim style

    Coated finishes built for salt and sun, matching trim for an existing handleset, and low-profile faces cost differently from a standard brass or nickel unit, and you choose the level.

What to have ready

  • Which doors do you want a deadbolt on, and does each one already have a bolt or only a knob?
  • Is there glass in the door or a sidelight beside it within arm's reach of the lock?
  • Is there a storm door or screen door in the same opening?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
Does the finish of the deadbolt matter beyond looks?

It does on an exposed door. Winter salt spray, summer sun and humid air all work on the outside trim, and residential deadbolts carry a finish grade that reflects how well the coating resists them. A lifetime or PVD-style finish stays bright longer on a south-facing or roadside door, while a sheltered porch door can carry any finish you like. Matching the knob or lever below is mostly a matter of taste.

What do lock grades mean when I am picking a deadbolt?

Residential deadbolts are graded under an industry standard in three categories, security, durability and finish, with letter grades from C through A, so a lock marked with three A grades has met the highest level in each. Heavier commercial-pattern bolts are graded 1, 2 or 3, with 1 the highest. The grades let you match hardware to a busy family door or an exposed side entrance without relying on the weight of the box.

Can the new deadbolt use the same key as my other doors?

Usually, yes. If the new lock shares a keyway with your existing cylinders, the locksmith repins it on the bench so your current key operates it, and nothing changes on anyone's ring. If the keyways differ, the other doors can be brought onto the new key instead. Say which key you want to keep before the hardware is chosen, because keyway is part of picking the lock.

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